We have arrived in Skopje, capital of Macedonia... population of 2.5 million... independent nation since 1991... conspicuously friendless during the 20 century. The story tonight is how a fierce human spirit (perhaps national spirit) can survive healthy and positive after a century of abuse where every nation on earth has turned its back on injustice and persecution of a small nation.
Another history lesson is unavoidable at this time... so let's make it quick. The ethnic group of Macedonian people occupied the Balkan peninsula in Neolithic times. Very early in time, Slavic peoples moved into the peninsula and have assimilated with Macedonian people. Macedonian people claim a heroic ancient history... culminating in Alexander the Great's domination of the known world around 400 BC. Of course, the Greeks will claim ownership of Alexander... after all, he was born in Pella, now part of Greece. The Macedonian people retort that if you asked Alexander who he was, he would reply that he was King of Macedonia... a kingdom with most of its land mass contained within the current boundaries of Macedonia. But 20th century history has not been kind to Macedonia... in fact it has been given the rough end of the stick with each 'real-political' carve-up that occurred in that century.
Please stick with the history for just a little longer. During the long Otterman occupation, Macedonia struggled to free its larger historic borders... and received retribution for its efforts. When the Ottomans walked away from the Balkan Peninsula in 1912, the world powers wanted to establish a Greek nation that was durable. They achieved this result by taking from Macedonia a sea port and its richest agricultural areas. Why did they do this? Who knows... perhaps they thought the Greek history more romantic than the Macedonian history. But this decision has given Macedonia a century of grief. It was left in a weakened (perhaps unsustainable) state. All its neighbours sniped at its boundaries... trying to sneak a bit of extra territory while no one was watching. Neighbours could smell 'blood in the water' and wanted their share of the spoils.
Enough of history... history that doesn't show any of the major powers of the 20th century in a good light.
I'm worked up about this history because Joye and I have just returned from visiting the Museum of Macedonian Independence... a purpose built showcase that the Macedonian people have constructed to ensure the world does not forget their history. It's a museum like no other we have visited. Entry is available with an escorting guide. Each room is spotlighted. On the floor stand wax figures (think of Madame Tussaud but more life like) in scenes depicting historical meetings, massacres, battles, etc. You walk between the figures. They are so life-like that they catch you unawares. Wall-size paintings have been commissioned from the same group of artists... the effect is stunning. There is enough factual evidence shown with each scene to open your mind to the possibility of its accuracy. The whole story has so many chapters all illustrating how neighbours and world powers just abused Macedonia... the poor country has been friendless for a century.
There is no happy ending so far. However, recent history is promising. Since it was given its independence in 1991, the number of deaths from military action has been very small. (No one has counted that number for the 20th century... but our guide guessed it would likely exceed one-million.
An earthquake levelled the middle of Skopje in 1963, and the Tito's communist regime didn't restore the area. Upon independence in 1991, the Macedonians designed a central area for Skopje that displayed its glorious history. In 2013, the city centre is now taking shape and it's most impressive.
Macedonia's agonising history may have caused many other people to give up. The period of suffering is so long and the proportion of the population killed is so high. But the Macedonians are a determined lot. They have satisfied the requirements set by the EU for membership... but Greece continues to object to the country being named 'Macedonia'. Before they agreed not to veto the application for membership, they wanted agreement that it will be called 'FYROM' namely, Former Yugoslavia Republic of Macedonia. What a joke! I love the Greeks... but this demand is ridiculous!
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