Today, we again headed for the mountains of the South Coast of Crete. We enjoyed yesterday's gorge so much and wanted more. We tackled a mountain pass to the east of yesterday's treck... the pass was a little higher and the descent a little steeper... the gorge a little deeper.
When safely down on the south coast, we passed a couple of hikers. They were the same couple we gave a lift to yesterday. What a coincidence! We stopped and again offered them a lift. The guy is on his third trip to Crete... so knew quite a lot. He and his girlfriend intended staying in the village next on the road. This village is his favourite... because of its disruptive social history. The village men have resisted every form of authority that has been imposed on the village. They resisted the Turks, the Venetians, the Junta, the monarchs and more recently, democratic rule. They resisted the lot!
Recently, after roads were built over the mountains, the town (Horo Stakion) was forced to come to grips with the modern world... even tourism. The men of the town said OK but made it clear that under no circumstances would the men serve. To serve was just too demeaning! In recent years younger men have acquiesced and tied up the apron strings, poured the wine and pumped the gas.
The final feature that our hiker liked was the persistent vendettas that occupied the region. Rudeness and slights committed decades ago were still being settled... often with a bit of violence to repay the interest.
There is nothing like isolation to afford the luxury of indulgences. In a few years, Horo Stakion will be indistinguishable from every other Crete village. But today, it still retains a hint of character that harks back to another era.
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